Quick Picks: Best Fuel Containers for 2025
After thousands of trail miles and dozens of containers tested, here are our top choices for the best gas cans for overlanding:
Best Overall: Wavian NATO Jerry Can ($89-119)
Simply put, this is the gold standard. Built to military specifications with a perfect seal system and lifetime durability. This is what rides on my own rig.
- 5.3-gallon capacity
- Proper NATO specifications
- Best-in-class gasket system
- Available for all fuel types
Best Value: Scepter Military Can ($49-69)
Don’t let the lower price fool you—this container has proven itself repeatedly on challenging trails.
- 5-gallon capacity
- Military-grade plastic construction
- Excellent pour spout design
- Made in North America
Best Modular System: Rotopax 3-Gallon ($100)
Perfect for rigs where space is at a premium or when you need a flexible mounting solution.
- Low profile design
- Multiple mounting options
- Interlocking system
- UV-stabilized construction
- Made in the USA
Best Heavy Duty: Valpro Armor ($99)
When failure isn’t an option, this overbuilt can delivers.
- Extra thick steel walls
- Enhanced corner protection
- Superior weld quality
- Includes heavy-duty spout
The sun is setting over the Mojave, your fuel gauge is dancing between quarter tank and empty, and the next gas station is… well, you’re not quite sure.
This isn’t just a hypothetical—it’s a situation every overlander needs to be prepared for.
After watching fellow travelers face fuel emergencies and experiencing a few close calls myself, I’ve learned that your fuel storage system isn’t just another piece of gear—it’s your lifeline.
Why Trust This Guide?
We’ve seen it all—fuel cans surviving rock-strewn trails, enduring Death Valley’s blistering heat, and braving Colorado’s freezing mountain passes.
Every recommendation in this guide comes from hands-on testing and thorough research.
Whether you’re planning a quick weekend trip or a cross-country adventure, we’ve got you covered with the best fuel storage solutions to keep your journey running smoothly.
Understanding Fuel Storage: More Than Just Gas Cans
The Jerry Can Legacy
That distinctive Jerry can design you see everywhere isn’t just about looks. Born from military necessity in the 1930s, the engineering behind these cans remains remarkably relevant for modern overlanding.
Key Design Elements:
- Three handles for easy carrying and passing
- X-shaped indentations for structural strength
- Cam-lever locking cap for reliable sealing
- 20L/5.3-gallon capacity
- Standard dimensions: 14.5″ × 6.5″ × 19″
Why does this matter? Because when you’re 50 miles from pavement, these design features can make or break your adventure.
Those three handles aren’t just convenient—they’re essential when you need help lifting a full can across difficult terrain. The X-pattern on the sides isn’t decorative; it prevents warping in extreme temperatures.
For those interested in exploring various camping setups, our guide on 4 Vintage Truck Camping & Truck Camper Options For Adventure offers insights into different configurations that can enhance your overlanding experience.
Calculating Your Fuel Needs
Here’s a tried-and-true formula for overlanders who like to play it safe:
Basic Calculation:
- Take half your tank capacity
- Add 1 gallon per 100 miles of remote travel
- Add 30% for technical terrain
Let’s make this real. Say you’re planning a weekend expedition:
- Your tank holds 25 gallons
- You’re looking at 300 miles of remote travel
- Some technical terrain ahead
Running the numbers:
- 12.5 gallons (half tank)
- +3 gallons (for 300 miles)
- +4.5 gallons (30% terrain factor)
Total: 20 gallons of extra fuel capacity needed
It might seem like overkill, but I’ve yet to hear anyone regret bringing too much fuel. The same can’t be said for running out in the middle of nowhere.
If you’re not going that far out there, I would at least have 5 gallons with you . Better safe than sorry, and rememeber, this is not always just for you. You could save someone else’s life by being prepared.
If you’re just starting out in overlanding or truck camping, make sure to check out Truck Camping 101: 15 Essential Tips for Beginners for a complete guide to gearing up for your first trip.
Metal vs. Plastic: The Great Debate
If you’ve spent any time around overlanding forums or campfires, you’ve heard heated debates about metal versus plastic fuel containers. After years of testing both, here’s what really matters.
Metal Containers: The Traditional Choice
Think of metal Jerry cans as the cast iron skillets of fuel storage—they’re heavier, more expensive, but nearly indestructible with proper care.
Key Benefits:
- Multi-decade lifespan with basic maintenance
- Performs in extreme temperatures (-20°F to 130°F)
- Handles high pressure without deforming
- Fire resistant
- Ages gracefully
Real-World Experience:
I once watched a metal Jerry can tumble 30 feet down a rocky slope. After retrieving it, we found only cosmetic scratches. The seal remained perfect, and that same can is still in service today.
Plastic Containers: The Modern Contender
Modern plastic cans aren’t your grandfather’s fuel containers. High-density polyethylene and advanced manufacturing have created compelling options for many overlanders.
Advantages:
- Significantly lighter (important for payload calculations)
- Generally more affordable
- Won’t create sparks when scraped
- Often feature innovative mounting solutions
Worth Noting:
Last summer, I watched a plastic can slowly warp over three months of desert heat. While it never failed catastrophically, it was a reminder that environment matters when choosing your container material.
The plastic in our suggestsions are designed to withstand significant temperature extremes!
Mounting Solutions: Location Matters
The best fuel container in the world won’t help you if it breaks free on the trail. After witnessing a poorly mounted gas can become a 40-pound projectile, I learned that mounting location and security aren’t just about convenience—they’re about safety.
Roof Rack Mounting
The most popular option isn’t always the best. Yes, roof mounting keeps fuel out of your cargo space, but it comes with trade-offs.
Pros:
- Maximizes interior space
- Easy access in camp
- Keeps fuel vapors outside
Cons:
- Raises center of gravity
- Affects fuel economy
- UV exposure
- Can be difficult to lift full cans
Real-World Tip: If you go this route, invest in a good step stool. Nothing ruins a morning like trying to wrestle a full gas can above your head before coffee.
Rear Bumper/Swing-Out Systems
My personal favorite for most builds. Here’s why:
Benefits:
- Lower center of gravity
- Easy loading/unloading
- Protected from trail damage
- Accessible even with a loaded roof
Considerations:
- Adds rear weight
- May affect departure angle
- More expensive initially
Quick Tip: Look for mounts with secondary safety catches. That $2 backup latch might save your $100 fuel can (and someone’s windshield).
Bed Mounting
For pickup owners, bed mounting offers a solid middle-ground solution.
Key Points:
- Protected from most trail damage
- Easy access
- Doesn’t affect vehicle dynamics significantly
- Works well with tonneau covers
Safety Note: Never mount fuel containers inside an enclosed canopy or topper. The ventilation isn’t adequate, and fuel vapors can build up to dangerous levels.
Universal Mounting Tips
Regardless of your chosen location, these principles apply across the board:
Essential Hardware:
- Grade 8 bolts minimum
- Self-locking nuts
- Load-rated straps
- Rubber isolation mounts
Installation Guidelines:
- Double-check all mounting points
- Maintain 6″ minimum clearance from exhaust components
- Use anti-seize on all bolts
- Check mounting security before each trip
Long-Term Storage: Keeping Fuel Fresh
Nothing derails an adventure faster than finding your emergency fuel has turned to varnish. After a particularly frustrating trip where my backup fuel gummed up my carburetor, I learned the hard way about proper fuel storage.
Fuel Shelf Life
Different fuels, different timelines. Here’s what you’re working with:
Regular Gasoline:
- Without stabilizer: 3-6 months
- With stabilizer: 1-2 years (3 if you’re optimistic and have the right storage conditions)
- Premium gas: Generally lasts longer due to higher quality additives
Diesel Fuel:
- Standard diesel: 6-12 months
- With additives: Up to 24 months
- Bio-diesel: 3-6 months maximum
Real-World Tip: I write the fill date on my cans with a paint marker. Simple, but it works better than trying to remember when you last filled them.
Storage Best Practices
Temperature Matters:
- Keep containers in shade when possible
- Ideal storage temperature: 55-75°F
- Avoid freezing temperatures
- Minimize temperature swings
The 95% Rule:
Always leave about 5% air space in your containers. Why? Fuel expands and contracts with temperature changes. That extra space prevents pressure buildup that can damage containers or cause leaks.
Storing your fuel correctly is just part of the equation. For tips on waking up your vehicle after long-term storage, don’t miss Essential Tips for Starting Old Cars After Long Storage.
Warning Signs of Bad Fuel
Learn to spot these red flags:
- Color changes (darker or cloudy)
- Sediment in the container
- Sour or unusual smell
- Separated layers
- Gel-like substances
Quick Test: Pour a small amount in a clear glass jar. Good fuel should be clear and bright, not cloudy or dark.
Seasonal Considerations
Summer Storage:
- More frequent rotation needed
- Additional expansion space required
- UV protection crucial
Winter Storage:
- Consider fuel additives for cold weather
- Check seals more frequently
- Monitor for condensation
Pro Tip: I keep two sets of cans – one for regular use and one for emergency backup. The emergency set gets premium fuel with stabilizer, while the regular set gets rotated through more frequently.
Safety and Legal Considerations: Stay Safe, Stay Legal
After watching a ranger write a hefty ticket to an overlander with improperly stored fuel at Moab, I learned that fuel storage regulations aren’t just suggestions—they’re serious business.
DOT Requirements
Think of these as your baseline requirements, the absolute minimum for legal compliance.
Basic Standards:
- ASTM F852 certification required
- Maximum portable size: 5 gallons
- Clear labeling mandatory
- Proper venting systems
Quick Tip: Take a photo of your can’s certification marks. It’s saved me time in more than one conversation with concerned officials.
State-by-State Variations
We’re not lawyers, so be sure to check with each state you plan on visiting! Also, these are all subject to change without us being aware and having the article up-to-date.
National Park Rules:
- Quantity limits vary by park
- Storage location restrictions
- Declaration often required
- Special permits for extended trips
BLM Land Guidelines:
- Generally more relaxed
- Local field office rules apply
- Fire restriction impacts
- Seasonal variations
Transportation Safety
Basic Rules:
- Never transport inside passenger compartment
- Secure against movement
- Maintain ventilation
- Keep out of direct sunlight
On Public Roads:
- Maximum volume restrictions
- Placarding requirements
- Container orientation matters
- Cross-border considerations
Personal Experience: During a cross-country trip, I was stopped at a checkpoint where the officer specifically checked my fuel can mounting. His advice? “If it moves when you shake it, it’s not secure enough.”
Color Coding: Not Just for Show
Standard Colors and Their Meanings:
- Red: Gasoline only
- Yellow: Diesel
- Blue: Kerosene
- White: Potable water
- Black: Non-potable water
Why Black Water Cans Work for Hot Water Too
• Heat Absorption: The black color absorbs sunlight more effectively than lighter colors, allowing the water inside to heat up naturally. This makes them a simple, energy-free solution for warm water on the go.
• Convenience for Showers: After a few hours in direct sunlight, the water can get warm enough for a comfortable rinse or washing up at camp.
Why It Matters: Beyond legal requirements, proper color coding could prevent a catastrophic fuel mix-up when you’re tired at the end of a long trail day.
Maintenance and Inspection: An Ounce of Prevention
I learned about maintenance the hard way when a deteriorated gasket led to a slow leak that ruined a weekend trip. Now, I treat my fuel cans with the same attention I give my engine.
Regular Inspection Schedule
Monthly Checks:
- Gasket condition
- Seal integrity
- Cap function
- Mount security
You don’t need special tools for these checks—just your eyes and hands. I do mine the first Sunday of every month, right after checking tire pressures.
Proper maintenance is key to a successful overlanding journey. If you’re considering restoring your vehicle, check out our Step-by-Step Guide to Restoring a Truck on a Budget for practical tips and cost-effective strategies.
Gasket Care: The Silent Hero
Like any seal, Jerry can gaskets need love:
- Clean with mild soap and water
- Check for deformation
- Look for cracks or dry rot
- Replace at first sign of wear
Pro Tip: Keep spare gaskets in your tool kit. They’re cheap insurance against trail-side leaks, and they take up virtually no space.
Keeping your fuel containers and other overlanding gear organized can save you time and stress. For practical ideas, check out Top 10 Inspiring Garage Customization Ideas for Your Space.
Container-Specific Maintenance
Metal Cans:
- Check for rust spots
- Inspect weld integrity
- Test pressure relief valves
- Lubricate cam locks
Watch out for: Rust starting around the seams or cap area—that’s your early warning system.
Plastic Containers:
- Look for UV damage
- Check for stress cracks
- Inspect mounting points
- Test cap threading
Real Experience: I once found hairline cracks in a plastic can by filling it with water first—much better than discovering it with fuel on the trail.
Mount System Maintenance
Quarterly Checks:
- Bolt torque
- Strap condition
- Mounting point integrity
- Anti-seize application
Important Note: Salt and mud can corrode mounting hardware surprisingly quickly. After any beach or mud running, give everything a thorough rinse and inspection.
When to Retire Equipment
Replace Your Cans If:
- Significant rust appears (metal)
- Plastic becomes brittle
- Seams show separation
- Can’t maintain pressure
- Mount points are compromised
Remember: The cost of a new can is nothing compared to the cost (and danger) of a failure miles from nowhere.
Frequently Asked Questions: Real Answers from Real Experience
After years of overlanding and countless campfire conversations, these are the questions that keep coming up. Let’s tackle them with straight talk and real solutions.
“How much extra fuel do I really need?”
I get this one at every meetup. While we covered the formula earlier, here’s the practical approach:
Start with this mindset:
- Better to have it and not need it
- Consider your vehicle’s real-world range
- Factor in difficult terrain
- Plan for others in your group
Real Example: Last year in Moab, we ended up sharing fuel with two other rigs who underestimated their consumption in technical terrain. Our “excess” fuel became the group’s backup plan.
“Metal or plastic for a budget build?”
This depends on your priorities:
If funds are tight:
- Start with one quality metal can
- Add plastic cans as budget allows
- Focus on mounting hardware
- Don’t skimp on gaskets
Smart Tip: A well-maintained plastic can is better than a cheap metal can with questionable seals.
“Can I store fuel long-term in my vehicle?”
Short answer: You can, but you probably shouldn’t without fuel stabilizer.
Why it’s risky:
- Temperature fluctuations
- Constant vibration
- UV exposure
- Safety concerns
Better Approach:
- Rotate fuel every 3 months
- Use fuel stabilizer
- Keep logs of fill dates
- Store extra at home
“What about different fuel types in the same trip?”
If you’re running multiple vehicles or equipment:
Best Practices:
- Use extremely clear labeling
- Different color cans
- Separate mounting locations
- Never mix storage types
Personal System: I use metal cans for primary fuel and Rotopax for secondary fuel types (like diesel for the camp stove). Different locations, zero confusion.
“How do I clean a contaminated fuel can?”
Step-by-step process:
- Drain completely
- Rinse with small amount of fresh fuel
- Let dry thoroughly
- Inspect for residue
- Consider professional cleaning for serious contamination
Warning: Never use water to clean fuel containers unless you’re converting them permanently to water storage.
Common Mistakes and Hard-Learned Lessons
After watching enough trail mishaps (and having a few of my own), I’ve compiled a list of the most common fuel storage mistakes. Learn from our errors—they’re expensive enough the first time around.
The “It Won’t Happen to Me” Mistakes
Cheap Mounting Hardware
Remember: A $2 bolt can cost you a $100 fuel can.
What I’ve Seen Go Wrong:
- Zip ties used as primary mounts
- Rusted hardware failing mid-trail
- Bungee cords as “temporary” solutions
- Hardware store straps degrading in sun
The Right Way:
- Grade 8 bolts minimum
- Stainless steel where possible
- Proper load-rated straps
- Redundant securing methods
The Temperature Trap
Story Time: Watched a plastic can deform badly after being left in direct Nevada sun. The owner thought “it’s just for one afternoon.” It wasn’t pretty.
Common Mistakes:
- Leaving cans in direct sunlight
- Not accounting for expansion
- Ignoring temperature ratings
- Overfilling in cold weather
Smart Solutions:
- Use reflective covers
- Follow the 95% fill rule
- Check ratings for your climate
- Regular inspection during temperature extremes
Cross-Contamination
The “I’ll Remember What’s In It” Mistake:
- Unmarked containers
- Faded labels
- Similar looking cans
- Mixed-use containers
Prevention System:
- Clear, permanent labeling
- Color-coded caps
- Dedicated containers
- Written logs
The False Economy
Trying to save money often costs more:
- Buying used containers
- Skipping on stabilizer
- Postponing gasket replacement
- Using non-rated containers
My Rule: Buy once, cry once. Quality fuel storage is cheaper than being stranded or causing damage.
Final Thoughts: Your Fuel System Is Only as Good as Your Planning
After thousands of miles on the trail, countless fuel stops, and more than a few close calls, I’ve learned that fuel storage isn’t just about the containers—it’s about building a complete fuel system that works for your specific needs. Here’s what you need to compliment the best gas cans for overlanding!
Putting It All Together
Start With Quality:
- Choose containers that match your needs
- Invest in proper mounting solutions
- Get the right fuel additives
- Keep spare parts handy
Build Your System: Whether you go with classic NATO cans or modern Rotopax, create a system that:
- Matches your vehicle’s range
- Fits your storage space
- Meets local regulations
- Provides peace of mind
Remember: The best setup is the one that works every time, not just in perfect conditions.
The Three Rules I Live By
- Never pass on fuel – When you have the chance to top off safely, take it. The next station might be closed, out of fuel, or simply gone.
- Check Before Every Trip – Make it part of your pre-trip routine:
- Container integrity
- Mount security
- Fuel freshness
- Seal condition
- Plan for Others – The trail community looks after its own. Having extra capacity isn’t just about you—it might help a fellow overlander make it home.
Looking Ahead
As we move into 2025, we’re seeing innovations in fuel storage technology, but the basics remain the same: reliable containers, secure mounting, and smart fuel management will never go out of style and that’s why these make our list for best gas cans for overlanding.
At Get Vintage Vehicles we want you to remember, your fuel storage system is like insurance—you may go years without needing it, but when you do, you’ll be grateful you invested in quality gear and maintained it well.
Stay safe out there, and keep the shiny side up.
