I’ve got a checklist for buying a classic car that would have saved meΒ a lot of time spent with my head in my hands. Poor pitiful me, but…
That feeling you get when you’re buying a classic car just hits different. Mine was a ’69 Chevelle – the photos showed this gorgeous midnight blue paint job.
Two weeks and one very expensive lesson later, I discovered what 3 inches of body filler feels like when it starts cracking.
Want to know what else I wish someone had told me? Grab a coffee and a flashlight – we’re about to save you thousands and hopefully tons of head and heartache.

Table of Contents
The No-BS Inspection Checklist to Not Get Burned
Save this. Trust me. It’s worth more than your buddy’s “expert” advice.
Papers First (Because Nobody Likes Surprises)
- Title in hand – not “in the mail” or “at my buddy’s house”
- VIN matches everywhere (dash, door tag, title) – this saved my bacon more than once
- Service records or restoration photos (Read our restoration guide)
- Old registration cards – they tell the real story
Body Check (AKA Where Your Money Disappears)
- Magnet test on quarters and fenders – if it doesn’t stick, run
- Trunk floor corners – they rot first, always
- Peek under that suspiciously new carpet
- Door hinges – sagging means rust is having a party
- Frame rails where they meet the floor – bring a flashlight and your oldest clothes
Mechanical Must-Sees (The Expensive Stuff)
- Cold start video/test – warm engines hide sins
- Oil pressure when warm – if it’s low, your wallet’s about to be too
- Compression test results – no test? Consider it failed
- Transmission fluid color – brown is bad, glittery is worse
- Brake pedal firmness – soft pedals mean hard expenses
Red Flags (Learn From My Pain)
- Fresh paint over rust bubbles
- Recent “quick flip” purchase by seller
- “All original” claims without proof
- “Just needs” anything
- Restored title – there’s always a story, never a good one
Bring With You (The Smart Person’s Kit)
- Strong flashlight (not your phone)
- Mechanic’s mirror
- Clean magnet
- Socket for oil drain plug
- Change of clothes (found out the hard way)
The Money Stuff
Let’s be real about costs. Mike thought he scored big on a $12,000 Mustang fastback last summer. Now it’s winter, and he’s in $23,000 deep with no end in sight. Why?
The frame rails were toast. Not the “maybe we can patch it” kind of toast. The “your welder just laughed and walked away” kind of toast.
Here’s what actually drains your wallet:
- That transmission whine everyone says is “normal”? It’s not. Budget $3,800.
- Electrical gremlins from 1960s wiring. Your headlights might work. Or your wipers. Never both.
- Chrome work. I cried when I got the bill for redoing my bumpers.
The “Perfect” Car Online
Facebook Marketplace is wild. Last month, some guy listed a “mint” GTO Judge. The photos looked museum-quality. Reality? The car had more filler than metal, and the engine knocked harder than my aunt at Christmas dinner.
Before you drive hours to see a car:
- Get the VIN and decode it yourself
- Ask for photos of specific rust spots – they’ll tell you way more than those glossy overview shots
- Request cold-start videos. A warmed-up classic can hide all kinds of expensive problems
The “Standing There Sweating” Part
You finally found it. She’s sitting right in front of you, that perfect ’67 you’ve dreamed about since high school. Your hands are shaking. The seller’s watching. What now?
Bring a flashlight. Not your phone – a real flashlight. And wear clothes you can crawl under a car in. I learned this one laying in a puddle under a Charger while wearing khakis. My wife still hasn’t let that one go.
Start with the obvious stuff:
- VIN plate looks sketchy? Jerry bought a “real” SS that turned out to be a regular Chevelle with some fancy badges. Cost him $15k to learn that lesson.
- Panel gaps wide enough to lose your sandwich in? That’s accident damage, not “character.”
- Floor corners where the frame rails meet. Stick your finger in there. Yeah, it’s gross. But better than buying Swiss cheese.

The Test Drive
This is where people get stupid. Me included. That rumbling V8 hits different and suddenly you’re reaching for your wallet. Don’t.
My buddy Dave ignored a weird clunk because the engine “sounded like heaven.” That clunk? Turned out the transmission was holding together with hopes and prayers. $4,200 later…
Listen for:
- Clunks when shifting
- That high-pitched bearing whine at 40mph
- Brakes that feel like stepping on a sponge
- Steering that thinks straight ahead is optional
The Paper Nightmare
Here’s why titles matter. Three years ago, I found this killer deal on a ’70 Chevelle. Price was right, car was clean. But the seller had a “paperwork situation.” Said he’d mail me the title once it “cleared up.”
Spoiler: There was no title. The car was basically a parts donor with VIN tags from another car welded in. Ask me how I know about VIN locations now.
What Papers Actually Matter
Nobody likes paperwork. But here’s what saved my friend Tony $25k on a fake GT500:
- Build sheets (if they exist – a lot got tossed)
- Old registrations showing the ownership chain
- Service records – even old oil change slips tell a story
- Magazine features or show photos – they’re gold for proving history
The Money Talk
Cash talks. But sometimes it says dumb things.
My neighbor flashed $30k at a Camaro seller last spring. Guy suddenly “remembered” it was an original Z/28. Turned out to be a base model with fresh paint and fake badges.
Real talk on price:
- Market guides are just guides. That $50k estimate? It’s for perfect cars
- Project cars aren’t “half off” perfect prices. They’re usually quarter price, tops
- Parts cars should be cheap. Really cheap. Like “why am I even paying this much” cheap
Read this before you sell your classic car!
Classic Car Scams That Cost My Friends Big Money
The Badge Job
Original numbers-matching cars bring big money. That’s why Tyler’s “real” SS396 turned into a regular Chevelle with fake badges and forged documents. How to spot it:
- Numbers don’t match the build date
- Wrong casting numbers on engine
- Suspicious documentation gaps
- Trim tag inconsistencies
- Freshly stamped VINs (look rough or different from factory)
The Quick Flip
Guy buys a car, throws on fresh paint, then sells it two weeks later for double. What’s under that paint?
- Body filler over rust
- Painted-over frame damage
- Fresh undercoating hiding rot
- Overspray on rubber parts
- New carpet covering floor problems
The Title Wash
A salvage car from California shows up in Michigan with a clean title. Classic move:
- Car has recent out-of-state title
- Seller “doesn’t know” previous history
- Multiple recent state transfers
- Paint looks newer than title age
- VIN etching looks fresh
The Parts Frankenstein
My cousin bought a “barn find” GTO that turned out to be three different cars welded together:
- Mismatched panel colors under seats
- Different paint thickness between panels
- Welding marks on frame rails
- VIN tags with different font styles
- Inconsistent wear patterns
The “Just Missing” Game
“Just needs a carburetor to run perfect!” Yeah, right. Three carburetors later…
- Missing “small” parts that cost thousands
- “Easy restoration” missing crucial trim
- “Everything’s there” but in boxes
- “NOS parts included” that don’t fit
- “Original engine” in pieces
The Drive Home
You bought it. Congrats! Now the fun starts.
Don’t trust that “it runs fine” line for the drive home. My alternator died 30 miles from the seller’s house. In the rain. At night. Now I keep a spare alternator in my truck because apparently I’m slow to learn.
Bottom Line on Making a Checklist for Buying a Classic Car
Buying a classic car can break your heart. And your wallet. But when everything clicks – when you’re cruising on a summer evening, engine purring, and that perfect song comes on the radio – nothing else matters. It can feel like you’re driving your favorite car from your favorite movie!
Just make sure you’ve got a good flashlight, a backup plan, and enough cash left over to keep her running.
Got a classic car story? Share it below. We all learn from each other’s expensive mistakes.